Grace and I left the hotel at 9:30am. We returned at 9:30pm. Grace has the blisters to prove it!
First we headed to Copenhagen’s oldest bakery, Sankt Peders Bageri, to try one of Denmark’s well known spiraled cinnamon cakes — snegls (snails). On Wednesdays at Skt Peders they’re called onsdagssnegl (Wednesday snails). Whatever day, they’re delicious! Then we headed to Illum Bolighus so that I could move from drooling over Danish pastries to drooling over Danish furniture and housewares. On the way, we passed by the National Cathedral of Denmark, Vor Frue Kirke (Church of Our Lady), and decided to stop and look inside. We both enjoyed the bright, peaceful spirit of the space.
After a brief emergency shoe purchase for Grace (Crocs aren’t great for all day walking), we were off to Tivoli Gardens, an amusement park and garden in the center of the city. It first opened in 1843, making it the second oldest amusement park in the world. I’m not a huge theme park fan, but I have to say, Tivoli is really enjoyable, with pretty little lakes and several open grassy areas to relax between rides. It doesn’t have the dirty, seedy feeling of smaller carnivals and it’s not as overwhelming and over-the-top as Disney resorts (or to be more accurate, my perception of Disney resorts). We bought all day unlimited passes and I let Grace call the shots. She even got me to go with her on the wooden roller coaster, which only reinforced my distaste for roller coasters. I have no clue how she actually enjoyed the ride; it left me sweating and nauseated and pledging never to go on one again.
On that mama meltdown note, we decided to take a break from Tivoli for a late lunch at Restaurant Paustian, a peaceful and delicious restaurant in the city’s northern docklands that serves traditional Danish cuisine. Grace has been exceptionally well-behaved, engaging, and mature on our trip, but when 4-year-olds are involved, I think lunch at slightly more refined restaurants is always a safer bet than dinner. After lunch we spent some time at the design shop Paustian, which shares the building. I love this shop! Not only is the building itself beautiful (and designed by Danish architect Jorn Utzon, who designed the Sydney Opera House), but I would be happy to own just about any piece of furniture sold there — timeless and gorgeous! Grace found a sheepskin rocking horse that kept her entertained while I snapped IPhone photos to file for inspiration when we settle back in New York.
Then it was back to Tivoli for an open air ballet performance, cotton candy, and more rides. We ended the evening with a boat ride on one of the lakes and a late night walk back to the hotel.
Really all I can say is: what a (fantastic!) day!!